The Annapurna Circuit is one of the great long-distance treks in the world — not because it delivers a single dramatic moment like Everest Base Camp, but because it takes you through an extraordinary range of landscapes, cultures, and altitudes over two to three weeks. You start in subtropical foothills at 760m, walk through river gorges and pine forests, climb into the high desert plateau of the Mustang rain shadow, cross a 5,416m pass, and descend into the apple orchards of the Kali Gandaki valley before finishing near Pokhara. The route forms a full circuit around the Annapurna massif. Almost no two days look the same.
This guide covers the full route with honest day-by-day detail, the permits, the costs, the road sections that have changed the lower circuit, and the decisions that shape whether you have a 14-day or 21-day experience.
Route Overview and Key Facts
- Maximum altitude: Thorong La pass, 5,416m
- Duration: 14–21 days depending on pace and whether you complete the full circuit
- Difficulty: Moderate. Long daily distances on the lower sections; altitude management is the primary challenge on the Thorong La approach.
- Start point: Besisahar (760m), accessible by bus from Pokhara (4–5 hours) or Kathmandu (7–8 hours)
- End point: Naya Pul near Pokhara (for the full circuit) or Jomsom by flight/jeep (for the shorter version)
- Best seasons: Spring (March–May) and Autumn (September–November). Peak months: October and April.
- Total distance: Approximately 160–230km depending on route variations and shortcuts
Permits Required
- ACAP (Annapurna Conservation Area Permit): NPR 3,000 ($22 USD)
- TIMS card (Trekkers’ Information Management System): NPR 2,000 ($15 USD)
Total permit cost: NPR 5,000 ($37 USD). Both are obtained in Pokhara at the TAAN/Nepal Tourism Board office near the lakeside, or through any registered trekking agency. Get them before leaving Pokhara — the checkpoints on the trail inspect them from the first day.
The Road Problem: What’s Changed
Before the day-by-day itinerary, this needs to be addressed directly because it affects how you’ll plan the lower sections of the circuit. A road now runs through most of the Annapurna Circuit’s eastern approach from Besisahar up to Chame and beyond, and a separate road connects Jomsom southward through the Kali Gandaki valley to Beni and Pokhara. Vehicle traffic — motorbikes, 4WDs, local buses, jeeps — shares what were once quiet trekking trails in these sections. The dust in dry season is significant.
The sections most affected: Besisahar to Chame (mostly driveable road, trail sections exist but often run alongside or on the same road), and Jomsom southward to Tatopani and Beni (heavy vehicle traffic on what was once a walking route). The section from Chame through Pisang and Manang to Muktinath via Thorong La is still largely road-free and remains the most spectacular part of the circuit.
The practical response most experienced trekkers have adopted: take a jeep or local bus from Besisahar to Chame (NPR 800–1,200, 4–6 hours on rough road), cutting several road-walking days that aren’t the scenic highlight of the circuit anyway. This saves 3–4 days on the lower approach and gets you to the interesting terrain faster. Traditionalists argue for walking the full route, and there’s a case for it — the gradual altitude gain is beneficial for acclimatization — but the road reality is worth knowing before you make that call.
Day-by-Day Itinerary (Classic 17-Day Route)
Day 1: Travel to Besisahar
Pokhara or Kathmandu → Besisahar (760m)
Buses to Besisahar depart from Pokhara’s Baglung Bus Park (NPR 300–450, 4–5 hours) and Kathmandu’s Gongabu New Bus Park (NPR 600–800, 7–8 hours). Most trekkers arrive in the afternoon and stay overnight in Besisahar before starting the trail the following morning. Besisahar is a standard market town with basic teahouses and guesthouses at NPR 300–600 per room.
Day 2: Besisahar to Bahundanda
760m → 1,310m | 5–6 hours | +550m
The first day’s trail crosses rice paddies and small farming villages in the subtropical lowlands. The Marsyangdi River is a constant companion throughout the lower circuit — loud, fast, and running green with glacial silt. Bahundanda (meaning “Brahmin Hill”) is a village of traditional stone houses on a ridge with views south over the valley. Teahouse rooms: NPR 200–400.
Day 3: Bahundanda to Chamje or Tal
1,310m → 1,430m (Chamje) or 1,700m (Tal) | 5–6 hours
The trail enters the Marsyangdi Gorge proper — a dramatic narrowing of the valley where the river rushes through vertical walls of rock. Multiple suspension bridges and waterfalls mark this section. Tal (1,700m) is a flat-floored village on an old lake bed with good teahouse options. If the lower sections have road sections running alongside, this is where they start to become noticeable.
Day 4: Tal or Chamje to Dharapani
1,430–1,700m → 1,860m | 4–5 hours
The gorge deepens and narrows further. Bagarchhap (2,160m), the first Tibetan-influenced village on the circuit, marks the cultural and climatic shift from subtropical to mountain terrain. Prayer flags replace rice paddies; the air noticeably cools. Dharapani at 1,860m (despite being lower than Bagarchhap — the trail dips and climbs throughout) is the junction point for the Nar Phu Valley restricted area.
Day 5: Dharapani to Chame
1,860m → 2,710m | 5–6 hours | +850m
Chame is the administrative hub of Manang District and has the most amenities of any town between Besisahar and Manang — a bank, medical post, and reasonable teahouses. The landscape above Bagarchhap becomes increasingly dramatic as the valley walls rise to several thousand metres on either side. Pine forests replace bamboo; temperatures drop. Trekkers who took the jeep to Chame join the trail here.
Day 6: Chame to Upper Pisang or Ngawal
2,710m → 3,310m (Upper Pisang) or 3,660m (Ngawal) | 5–6 hours
This is where the Annapurna Circuit becomes the trek people remember. The trail passes the Swargadwari rock formation — a sweeping concave cliff face of orange and grey — before opening into the wide Marsyangdi valley with Annapurna II (7,937m) and Pisang Peak (6,091m) suddenly and completely filling the skyline. Upper Pisang at 3,310m sits on a ridge above the river with a traditional stone monastery and views that stop most trekkers in their tracks. Ngawal (3,660m) continues higher on the ridge and gives even better views but requires a harder climb. The high ridge route between Upper Pisang and Manang (via Ghyaru 3,670m and Ngawal) is strongly preferred over the lower valley road route for both scenery and acclimatization.
Day 7: Ngawal or Upper Pisang to Manang
3,660m → 3,519m | 4–5 hours
The high ridge route from Ngawal via Braga (3,475m) to Manang passes Gangapurna Lake at the foot of Gangapurna glacier and offers continuous views of the Annapurna and Pisang ranges. Braga village has one of the most atmospheric gompas (monasteries) on the entire circuit — worth 30 minutes exploring before continuing to Manang. Manang itself (3,519m) is the last significant town before the Thorong La crossing. Stock up on supplies here, withdraw any cash you need (there’s a bank, though the ATM is unreliable), and eat a proper meal.
Day 8: Acclimatization Day in Manang
Rest and hike: 3,519m base | Ice Lake 4,620m or Gangapurna viewpoint
This day is critical. The Thorong La crossing at 5,416m is 1,897m higher than Manang. Attempting that jump without a rest day is how trekkers end up turned around at the pass or helicoptered out of Muktinath. The standard acclimatization hike is to Ice Lake (Kicho Tal) at 4,620m — a 3–4 hour climb via Khangsar that also gives views of Thorong La from a distance and lets you observe your body’s response to the altitude step before committing to the full pass. Return to Manang to sleep (3,519m). The Himalayan Rescue Association or local equivalent runs altitude talks in Manang in the afternoon — attend even if you feel fine.
Day 9: Manang to Yak Kharka or Ledar
3,519m → 4,018m (Yak Kharka) or 4,200m (Ledar) | 3–4 hours
A shorter day by design — the altitude gain above Manang needs to be gradual. The landscape above Manang is high alpine: sparse vegetation, yaks grazing on windswept hillsides, the trail narrowing to a clear line through moraine and rock. Yak Kharka (4,018m) has a few basic teahouses. Ledar (4,200m) is slightly higher and better positioned for the next day’s approach. Rooms here are basic and cold; NPR 400–700 per night.
Day 10: Yak Kharka to High Camp
4,018m → 4,925m (High Camp) or 4,450m (Thorong Phedi) | 3–4 hours
The final preparation day before Thorong La. The trail climbs past Thorong Phedi (4,450m) — the last teahouse at the base of the pass — and continues steeply to High Camp at 4,925m. Staying at High Camp (rather than Thorong Phedi) is strongly recommended: it reduces the ascent time to the pass summit by 2–3 hours and makes a dawn start more manageable. High Camp teahouses are spartan and expensive; rooms NPR 500–1,000, meals NPR 700–1,200. Sleep poorly but sleep — the alarm is at 3:00–4:00 AM.
Day 11: Thorong La Crossing — High Camp to Muktinath
4,925m → Thorong La 5,416m → Muktinath 3,760m | 8–10 hours total
The defining day of the circuit and one of the most memorable days of trekking available anywhere in the world. Depart High Camp by 4:00–4:30 AM in the dark, in temperatures that will typically run −10°C to −15°C at the pass. The ascent from High Camp to the Thorong La summit (5,416m) takes 3–4 hours — steep, rocky, and increasingly breathless as the oxygen thins. At the summit: a wall of prayer flags, a teahouse serving extremely overpriced hot drinks (NPR 400–600 for a cup of tea, no complaints), and on clear days the full southern panorama of the Annapurna range behind you and the Dhaulagiri massif ahead. The descent to Muktinath (3,760m) is 1,656m of elevation loss in 3–4 hours down a long switchback slope. Your knees will feel this.
Critical warnings for Thorong La: start before dawn to avoid afternoon wind and cloud buildup, which can make the pass dangerous by 11 AM. Never attempt the crossing if conditions are marginal — snowfall can close the pass entirely, and trying to push through poor visibility or icy conditions has killed trekkers. If you reach the pass and conditions are deteriorating, descend on the same side you came from. The pass will still be there tomorrow.
Day 12: Muktinath to Marpha
3,760m → 2,670m | 5–6 hours through Kagbeni (2,810m)
Muktinath itself deserves time before you descend. The Vishnu temple complex (Jwala Mai) at 3,760m is one of the most sacred sites in both Hinduism and Buddhism — 108 water spouts around the temple perimeter, an eternal flame fed by natural gas, and a Buddhist gompa within the same compound serving both traditions simultaneously. Hindu pilgrims from across South Asia travel here specifically. It’s one of the genuinely sacred places on the circuit, and worth an early morning at the temple before descending.
The descent follows the Kali Gandaki valley southward through Kagbeni (2,810m) — a medieval walled village at the entrance to the Upper Mustang restricted area — to Marpha (2,670m). Marpha is famous for its apple orchards and the distilleries that produce apple brandy and cider from them. Try it. The village is one of the most beautiful on the circuit — whitewashed stone buildings connected by narrow covered alleyways, protected from the valley wind. Stay a night here if you can.
Day 13: Marpha to Kalopani
2,670m → 2,530m | 5–6 hours through Jomsom (2,720m)
Jomsom (2,720m) is the regional administrative centre with a domestic airport (flights to Pokhara: NPR 14,000–20,000, 20 minutes). Many trekkers end the circuit here — taking a flight or jeep to Pokhara and skipping the southern valley sections. If you’re short on time or energy, this is a reasonable exit. The lower sections south of Jomsom involve increasing road traffic through the Kali Gandaki canyon and don’t have the dramatic altitude scenery of the upper circuit. If you have time and legs, continuing on foot to Tatopani’s hot springs and then up to Ghorepani completes the full circuit with a powerful finale.
Day 14: Kalopani to Tatopani
2,530m → 1,190m | 5–6 hours through Ghasa (2,010m)
The Kali Gandaki gorge between Kalopani and Tatopani is the deepest gorge in the world by some measurements — flanked by Dhaulagiri (8,167m) on the west and Annapurna I (8,091m) on the east, the vertical walls above the river are extraordinary in scale. The road runs through this section and vehicle traffic is unavoidable, but the natural scenery dwarfs the infrastructure. Tatopani (1,190m) means “hot water” and the natural hot springs here — developed into a soaking pool at the river bank — are exactly what destroyed leg muscles need after 14 days of trekking.
Day 15: Tatopani to Ghorepani
1,190m → 2,874m | 6–7 hours | +1,684m — the hardest climb of the circuit
After two weeks of mostly downhill and flat sections, the circuit ends with its most demanding climb. The ascent from Tatopani to Ghorepani gains 1,684m in a single day on a steep trail through rhododendron forest. In spring (March–April), this section is spectacular — the forest blazes red, pink, and white with rhododendron blooms. In autumn it’s dense and green. Arrive in Ghorepani by late afternoon with enough energy left to appreciate a good dinner and a warm sleeping bag. Ghorepani teahouses: NPR 400–800 per room.
Day 16: Poon Hill Sunrise — Descent to Naya Pul
Ghorepani 2,874m → Poon Hill 3,210m (sunrise) → Naya Pul 1,070m | 7–8 hours total
Wake at 4:30 AM and climb 45 minutes to Poon Hill (3,210m) for sunrise. The view from Poon Hill — Dhaulagiri (8,167m), Annapurna South (7,219m), Hiunchuli (6,441m), and Machhapuchhre (6,993m) lit in the dawn — is one of the most photographed vistas in Himalayan trekking. After sunrise, descend through Ulleri and Tikhedhunga to Naya Pul, where buses and taxis to Pokhara depart regularly (NPR 150–300 by bus, NPR 800–1,200 by taxi, 1.5 hours).
Total Cost Breakdown
For a solo trekker on the 17-day full circuit without a guide:
- Nepal visa (30 days): $50
- Bus from Pokhara to Besisahar: $3–4
- Trekking permits (ACAP + TIMS): $37
- Accommodation (17 nights, average NPR 550): $70
- Food on trek (17 days, average NPR 2,200/day): $280
- Jomsom to Pokhara flight (if taken instead of walking south): $104–149
- 3 nights Pokhara hotel (before and after): $60–90
- Travel insurance with helicopter evacuation: $100–150
- Miscellaneous (charging, hot showers, tips): $80–120
Total estimated cost without guide (full circuit, no Jomsom flight): $680–800 USD — the Annapurna Circuit is significantly cheaper than EBC because there’s no domestic flight required to the trailhead. With a guide at $30/day for 17 days plus tip: add $570, bringing the total to approximately $1,250–1,400.
The Thorong La Pass: What to Know Before You Go
The pass sits at 5,416m and is the single most demanding element of the circuit. Most trekkers who fail to cross do so because of one of three things: starting too late (should be off High Camp by 4:30 AM), poor weather (don’t attempt in snow or heavy cloud), or inadequate acclimatization (skipping the Manang rest day is the most common contributing factor).
The pass is open year-round in theory but snow closures are common from November through February. The safest crossing windows are October (dry, cold, reliable weather) and April–May (warming, some afternoon cloud but generally stable). Check weather and pass conditions with Manang teahouse owners the evening before — they have radio contact with High Camp and know current conditions better than any app.
Altitude illness is a real risk on the approach. The ascent from Manang (3,519m) to Thorong La (5,416m) gains nearly 1,900m in two days. Follow the acclimatization protocol above, carry Diamox as a treatment option, and know the HACE symptoms (confusion, ataxia, severe headache) that warrant immediate descent.
The Jeep Shortcuts Debate
The development of the Annapurna Circuit road has fundamentally changed how some trekkers approach the lower sections. The debate broadly runs like this:
For using jeeps on the lower sections: the road-walking from Besisahar to Chame is legitimately unpleasant in dry season (dust, traffic, no real trail) and the scenery doesn’t justify the additional 3–4 days of road walking. Taking a jeep to Chame puts you in the interesting terrain immediately, saves time, and the acclimatization benefit of the lower approach is partially offset by stopping in Chame (2,710m) rather than arriving in Manang immediately.
Against shortcuts: the gradual ascent from 760m over 5–6 days before reaching altitude gives the best possible acclimatization profile. The lower villages have their own character — Bagarchhap’s Tibetan influence, the Marsyangdi gorge scenery, the transition from subtropical to mountain. Skipping them means skipping a real part of the circuit’s story.
The most common compromise: take a local bus (not private jeep) to Besisahar and walk from there, or take a jeep to Chame and walk the full route from Chame. The section from Chame through Pisang, Manang, Thorong La, and down through Muktinath and the Kali Gandaki remains largely road-free and is where the circuit’s essential character lives.
Fitness Preparation
The Annapurna Circuit has two distinct physical demands: the long daily distances on the lower sections (some days 20–25km on mixed terrain), and the altitude challenge culminating in the Thorong La crossing. The Day 15 climb from Tatopani to Ghorepani (+1,684m in one day) also blindsides trekkers who’ve relaxed on the descent.
Start preparation 8–12 weeks before departure. Prioritize aerobic fitness — hiking, running, or cycling for 45–60 minutes daily. Leg and knee strength training helps specifically with the long descent days. If you can do a multi-day hiking trip with a loaded pack before leaving home, do it — the Annapurna Circuit involves 16+ consecutive days of walking and your body needs to know what that’s like.
Teahouse vs. Camping
The Annapurna Circuit is built for teahouse trekking. Teahouses are available at every village on the route at 3–5 hour intervals, and the infrastructure has been developing for 40 years. Camping is technically possible but rarely done by independent trekkers — the extra weight of camping gear adds nothing to the experience and the teahouse system provides warm food and a bed at reasonable cost throughout.
Agency-organized fully catered camping treks do exist and are used mainly by groups who want a more controlled experience. They’re significantly more expensive (NPR 8,000–15,000/day all-inclusive through an agency) and make most sense for corporate groups or trekkers with specific dietary or comfort requirements that teahouses can’t accommodate.
A Note from Nepal Trail Guide
The Annapurna Circuit is the trek that changes people’s minds about what a long walk can be. Not because it has the world’s highest mountain at the end of it — EBC does that — but because it’s a complete experience from subtropical foothills to high desert plateau to apple orchards to rhododendron forests, with a 5,416m pass in the middle and some of the most varied cultural landscape in Nepal along the way.
Do the Manang acclimatization day. Leave High Camp before 4 AM. Stop in Marpha and drink the apple brandy. Don’t skip Muktinath because you’re tired after the descent — it’s one of the genuinely sacred places in Asia and deserves the morning. And if you find yourself at Poon Hill at dawn on Day 16, watching the Annapurna range turn gold from a crowded hilltop with two hundred other people all staring at the same thing in the same silence, you’ll understand why this circuit keeps bringing people back.